Charles Frederick Holder Describes Mount Tamalpais and the Surrounding Landscape
Editor’s Note: The following excerpt from the essay, “At the Base of Tamalpais” by Charles Frederick Holder, appeared in the December 1892 to May 1893 (Vol. III) issue of the The Californian Illustrated Magazine. Although entranced by Southern California, Charles Frederick Holder (1851–1915), an American naturalist, conservationist, and author, penned an impressive homage to Mount Tamalpais and its surrounding area. He was passionate about all things related to nature and his writings on marine zoology and big-game fishing were highly regarded for their scientific detail and stirring narratives. Known as a pioneer of saltwater big-game fishing, Holder founded Santa Catalina Island’s Tuna Club of Avalon. In 1888, Holder, along with friend Dr. Francis F. Rowland, proposed for a floral parade accompanied by sports to be held on New Year’s Day each year. They coined the event The Tournament of Roses.
“At the Base of Mount Tamalpais” by Charles Frederick Holder
March 1893. “Mount Tamalpais, piercing the low flying clouds 3,000 feet in air, with its rugged cliffs and menacing crags is the sentinel of the Golden Gate. A rocky giant rising abruptly from the spurs of the Coast Range, of peculiar and striking appearance, it is one of the landmarks of the country and indicates the approach to San Francisco for miles at sea, and far over the heated plains where the snow-capped Sierra Nevada reach away — the gold wall of California…
… From Sausalito the North Pacific Coast Railroad reaches away into the country about the base of Tamalpais and beyond, through a region delightful in every way and destined in the immediate future to become the favorite summer resort of San Franciscans. The country rises abruptly from the sea in low, oak-covered hills as green as emerald on this January day; deep cañons wind away in many directions, well-wooded, literal rivers of verdure. At every move new and pleasing vistas appear; stretches of pasture-land, rich in growing grain, with bands and groups of cattle standing about; the hills beyond reaching up to Tamalpais, which is always the central point of interest and observation.
Again, the approach to the mountain is over dense forests of redwood, above which its ragged spurs just appear, or again it rises at the head of some deep gorge; its peak towering high in air, menacing and dark, like a living thing. In a very limited area, the mountain presents so many varied phases and characteristics, appearing and reappearing in so many different guises that one never wearies of the study. It rises abruptly from a densely wooded country, redwoods, oaks and the polished manzanita and sycamores being conspicuous, while hills, valleys, disconnected ridges, cañons and gulches extend in every direction, and in midwinter, when everything is green, the mountain overlooks a scene of great natural beauty.
Fifty years ago, the redwood forest that is now growing again was, judging from the size of the trees, one of the wonders of the country if not the world — the tops of the majestic forms being in full view of the present City of San Francisco. These trees were of unknown age and extraordinary size, and, if standing today, would have made the locality as much visited as the Garden of the Gods, or some similar resort where the wonders of nature constitute the attraction…
… As all roads lead to Rome, so all roads in Marin seem to lead to Tamalpais, and this winding verdure-lined lane that makes up the thoroughfare up Mill Valley is no exception, as here and there, wherever there is a break, the lofty spur of Tamalpais appears, the Mecca of the stroller.
Mill Valley abounds in beautiful homes, resembling, in many instances, eyries far up the mountain side. The road winds in and out among the trunks of gigantic trees, while side roads reach up the hillsides and wind away down deep cañons bringing out unsuspected beauties at every step. In February and March begins the winter festival of flowers, when the roadsides are lined with a floral display bewildering to the eye. In the deep nooks and corners, ferns, rare in the East, grow with boundless profusion, and the graceful, fern-like brakes attain an astonishing size. A stroll through these deep nooks is a revelation to the true lover of nature; a sermon without words, an impressive experience. The newcomer is at once struck with the singular growth of trees that appear to form in perfect circles, forming large halls of verdure. Some of these are so extensive that they are used as ballrooms or picnic rooms, the sides being the thick growth of young redwoods, while the roof is the blue vault of heaven, as though looking up through a tunnel…
… One of the most charming locations about Tamalpais is that made famous to the public by the Larkspur Inn of Messrs. Hepburn and Terry. From the broadgauge road to San Rafael, the county seat of Marin, the investigator of the beauties of Marin sees Tamalpais across a broad stretch of water, and against a lofty green wall in the immediate foreground perched like a bird’s nest, a picturesque object — the Larkspur Inn that has become famous for its table and good cheer all over California.
Larkspur town is virtually a street running in the direction of Tamalpais up what might be considered a cañon: the houses and hotel being built on the spurs of the range and having a fine view of the bay. Larkspur is a remarkable exemplification of what changes in climate can be had in a short distance from San Francisco when sheltered by the hills. It has a climate of its own, and when the winter gales are blowing through the Golden Gate, Larkspur is a snug harbor, warm, balmy, and with no fog, a literal winter garden in all the term implies. From the Inn a fine view of the distant bay is had, and by climbing the lofty hill to the west of all Marin seems to be at your feet. To the west rises Tamalpais, and away stretches a maze of hills and valleys telling of the richest dairy region in California…
… The Inn forms a most convenient starting point for excursions over the fine roads of Marin County. From here the trip to the summit of Tamalpais and return can be made in a few hours, affording one of the grandest views in the county. A good trail has been built up the mountain, and horses and burros are to be had at the base.As the ascent is made, the real attraction of the country at the base of the mountain appears, new beauties developing at every step, and when the summit is reached, if the day be clear, the view is impressive as well as enjoyable…”
